A Fashion Show Epilogue. Or Was It an Elegy?

In 1964 Andy Warhol educated a digital camera on the Empire State Building for about six and a half hours, in a meditation on the character of monuments, thought and notion.

On Friday, Alessandro Michele of Gucci educated a digital camera — truly just a few — on a Gucci marketing campaign shoot for 12 hours in a livestream concerning the nature of creation, identification and costume.

Also, in each circumstances, boredom, and the way in which it will possibly free the thoughts.

Mr. Michele has, within the 5 years he has been the inventive director of Gucci, largely cloaked his more and more hyperbolic and oversaturated reveals within the dense erudition of comparatively obscure philosophers like Giorgio Agamben, Gilles Deleuze and Johann Joachim Winckelmann, nevertheless it seems that Warhol makes for significantly better supply materials.

As a touch upon the expertise of lockdown and what it meant — to trend, but additionally to these caught at house in that unsettling nether land of suspended animation the place the lifetime of the thoughts continued whereas the lifetime of the physique was restrained — it turned out to be surprisingly efficient. Verdant, in each sense. If additionally sometimes tedious.

And it made for a becoming ending to what has been an olio of a digital trend week: a random stew of strains together with males’s, girls’s, couture, ready-to-wear, resort and “Flash” (the identify for an interstitial assortment created to generate pleasure), all of it packaged as model promos, designer musings and high-concept inventive collaboration that favored idea over garments to an unlucky extent.

The problem within the present digital actuality has all the time been combining an opportunity to truly see the stuff with the extra summary suggestion of the thought behind them, and the way in which it connects to our personal lived expertise. It’s confirmed tougher than most anticipated.

Watching AJ Tracey, the British rapper introduce his new music on the Versace headquarters whereas fashions writhing in what had been largely beaded fake snakeskin crop tops and hip-slung trousers (together with some very Versace silk print shorts-and-shirts combos) was enjoyable. But it didn’t go very far in answering the query of what we’re presupposed to put on subsequent; who we’re presupposed to be.

Perhaps that’s why numerous designers took the coronavirus-be-damned route and went again to reside reveals (Etro, Jacquemus) with a restricted, masked viewers.

It proved onerous to give attention to the style, nevertheless, once you stored worrying about an outbreak. Even although, within the case of Jacquemus, the viewers was socially distanced round an huge wheat subject, by way of which the fashions meandered in sunlit slip attire, beachy trousers and bra tops.

So what labored greatest, not simply as a visible expertise, not simply as a historic report of a really complicated second, not simply as precise shirts and attire and coats you could need to put on, however as the entire above?

Loewe’s do-it-yourself present in a field, full with swatches, pop-up backdrop and costume playing cards, as a counterpart to the filmed musings of the designer Jonathan Anderson, and the 360-degree view of chosen mannequins, the place the rigorous — and ingenious — splicing of maximum 18th-century volumes and austere outerwear may very well be seen within the spherical.

Maison Margiela’s 50-minute docudrama concerning the making of the Artisanal assortment within the weeks after lockdown in France, directed by Nick Knight, recorded by GoPros, drones and iPhones, was compelling in its perception.

It traversed the leaps and swirls of the designer John Galliano’s thoughts because it ranged alongside a pathway that linked the delicate material of Greek statuary to the Blitz membership youngsters of 1980s London to James Baldwin quotations; caught the close-knit glee with which Mr. Galliano’s studio, and muses just like the mannequin Leon Dame, cooked it up into actuality; and cozied as much as the method that goes into his work.

Especially the “wet drape” of gossamer white muslins minimize alongside a round line and suppressed by a sheer overstocking, to imitate the crushed marble material of the Three Graces. Or using a projector so as to add phrases to reflective embroidery atop a blood purple and black tulle robe.

To frame it, Mrs. Prada enlisted five creatives, including Juergen Teller, Joanna Piotrowska and Terence Nance, each of them offering two-minute snippets of their own point of view, in acknowledgment that when we see a designer’s work it is always through our own lens. The result was called “The Show That Never Happened” — just as Mr. Michele’s was called “Epilogue.”

In both cases, they were an acknowledgment of what all of this experimentation in form and function signifies, at least in theory: the last gasp of the old system and tentative steps toward the new.

Thus Mr. Michele offered up what was essentially an ode to the grandmother’s trunk approach he has made his signature. He loaded on the prints and pieces, the reference and nostalgia in 76 looks: florals and fringe and sequins and turbans and housedresses; brocade gowns and cutoff bluejean shorts and nerdy knee socks and bangles; Disney and Liberty of London and Ken Scott. Pull ’em apart if you have the patience and there’s something for everyone.

He did it in the Palazzo Sacchetti in Rome, against a backdrop of old master paintings and elaborate marquetry, and a manicured courtyard garden (with a trampoline), with staff in face masks and plastic face shields and 35 models who weren’t models but members of the atelier.

He did it with, in other words, with the people who made the clothes they were wearing; people of different ages and shapes and skin colors; all identified by name and job and given their due — in a palpably human display of thumb twiddling, awkward posing and kinship.

And he did it with final look book photos layered atop video of the shoot, juxtaposed against references that ranged from antique dolls to root vegetables, the process of grappling with identity and aesthetics laid bare.

It was, Mr. Michele gabbled during the video, “The end of the beginning of an experiment.” He was right. Now, onward.

Source link Nytimes.com

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